Cut the cane about 2/3 of the way down. This takes away old tired growth and leaves plenty of room for new branches to grow

If you’re in DFW, I strongly recommend you prune your roses this weekend if you haven’t already. Right now the roses are starting to develop leaf buds and if you wait any longer, it will be too late. Fortunately, for most gardens, pruning the roses takes less than ten minutes, and the chance of doing more damage than good are not great; unless you cut off every single growth eye most roses will come back and be stronger if you prune.

Pruning roses removes old, worn growth and allows the plant to put all its health and vigor into new branches. It is particularly important in North Texas because the plants are so vulnerable to Black Spot fungus here, and the disease winters over and stays on the plants. Removing the old growth is the first step in defense. The second is raking away the old leaves underneath the plant after pruning. The third? After leaves appear, you may want to use an anti-fungal.

To prune your rose, take a studied look at the plant. A rule of thumb is to remove 2/3 of the length of the canes. Make sure there is a healthy leaf bud or joint on the cane below the place where you intend to cut. This is where the new growth will emerge.

A hybrid tea rose after pruning is finished.

Roses which are particularly vigorous, such as “Peace” or “Queen Elizabeth” may be pruned quite short; they will spring back. More delicate plants, such as the blue roses (actually purples) and plants like David Austin’s English Roses grow slowly and more growth should be left on the plant. With more-woody roses, such as minis and polyanthas, clean out the small twigs between canes as well. These reduce air flow around the plant and increase vulnerability to Black Spot.

When you’ve done, carry the canes and leaves you’re raked up away to remove pathogens, particular the fungus, from the area and you’re done. Now, wait for the blooms.